RE: Question About The *Vegetable Emulsifying Wax* Keys Soap Uses

Dear Stancie,

First, we use a very expensive (around $400 for 50 lbs) and hard to get palm based wax that is used to make the water and oil ingredients combine. The process we use is more similar to how a mayonnaise is produced. We do use a spectral chromatograph to screen for foreign or added ingredients.

I asked our founder, Bob, to comment on the article and the general use of VEW. Here is what he sent me.
"All Emulsifying Waxes are alcohols. These are not the same as rubbing alcohol or ethanol. They are technically alcohols by nature of the chemical structures. The real issue is how the waxes are produced to create the final ingredient. These do range from very clean to not so clean. The reality is that even the not so clean are fairly clean and have an EWG rating of 1 on a scale of 0 to 10. This is not the most accurate rating, but it is fairly representative of how clean VEW's are.

The biggest concern that I have read are really the use by some of PEG's (glycols). Even though we do not use glycols, the amount of PEG 150 that I have seen in not so clean waxes is very very low in comparison of the amount of PEG's that are found in most over-the-counter lotions. Every manufacturer that I know of that is a member of the Natural Products Manufacturers association try to use the cleanest ingredients. For most, it is nearly impossible to screen all ingredients from one day to the next. We are lucky to have the equipment we use.

In comparison, an over-the-counter lotion could have as much as 6% PEG's while a manufacturer that uses a natural VEW may use 5% VEW in a product and the PEG content may be 0.001% of the entire product. I am not saying that it is perfect, but I am fearful for the industry when we have consumers demanding that natural products perform like OTC synthetics and then also demanding that overnight that manufacturers find alternatives to ingredients like VEW's that are as clean as ours. There is just not enough for everyone to buy to make their products. Also, as more consumers get the "clean" message, demand increases.

This is not a rationalization, but a realization. On top, many reputable scientists believe there are no issues of human safety in regard to PEG’s. So, some people that I believe that are seeking notoriety for their “discovery” of a chemical at 1 part per million (ppm) in a common ingredient should be helping consumers understand what is in their everyday products. Even though we say Chemical-Free, the reality is that everything is a chemical. What we are all trying to track is what goes into our ingredients and are they safe, For example, we have tied many skin disorder to a laundry detergent that has over 114 ingredients in their fragrance alone. Many known carcinogens. Yet, a well known natural products company was dinged by a blogger because a Phthalate was found in one of their products after testing a product that was believe to be beyond expiration date. They found a 1 ppm of Phthalate that was later determined to have come from the plastic bottle leaching out the chemical.

Stancie, I always respond to you because you a grounded. You also know that I am always on a quest for better and cleaner ingredients. At the same time, I call on credible sources like you to keep things in perspective for your readers. I have an obligation to my customers for their safety and I take that very seriously. As a Safe Cosmetics Signer, member of the Natural Products Manufacturers Association and EWG NGO Manufacturing member, I also have an obligation to help the industry grow. It is ying and yang or there will be no natural products industry.

For your readers, before fueling this issue, I would suggest first that the people raising a concern over this or any other concern substantiate it with facts first. Then look at the chemical and determine at what amount is harmful and what amount could damage. Then, look for the uses at the harmful levels and ban them. For the levels that might harm, look for alternatives that will work and eliminate the bad.

As I said, I am not defending VEW’s that have PEG 150 in them. What I am saying is that if we looked at all ingredients and their composition in the same way, the shelves would be bare.

I appreciate your approach, because you help readers to put things in perspective. Here is my perspective. 6% PEG 150 in a cheap baby lotion is bad. 0.001% PEG 150 in an ingredient used at 5% levels in a product is not perfect, but pretty damned close. If consumers want their products to triple in price, there are manufacturers that hold purity in the highest levels.

At the same time, help your readers to understand that “Organic” does not mean clean or pure. I have tested organically grown ingredients and have found concentrations of motor oil, metal shavings, animal parts and insect remains. Testing for microbiology in some of these ingredients has been startling with both gram positive and gram negative pathogens freely growing in culture dishes. So, I can appreciate chasing a chemical down to 1 ppm as long as they are also chasing pathogens. So, while those nasty parabens are harming us, they are protecting from pathogens. I am not promoting the use of parabens, but if I choose to not use them means that I have to find a credible alternative.

It is all about perspective I think. We use a term in-house when presented with an opinion versus a scientific study. We ask, is it fact based or FUD based. In this industry, it is usually 99% FUD and 1% fact. Oh, FUD stands for Fear Uncertainty and Doubt in the absence of facts. Our definition of FEAR is False Expectations Appearing Real. Lastly, we ask, is the person making the statement credible and what is their motive. 15 minutes of fame or helping society?? I wonder how many would pass that test alone.

If it seems like a hot button, it is probably true. :-)

Happy to continue the dialog! Bob”

Regards,

Mickey
Keys Customer service

Quote:

Good Morning Keys Soap, I hope this finds you happy + healthy!  I'm writing to you because I've been learning more about the ingredient "Vegetable Emulsifying Wax" and that it can contain some undesirable ingredients...unnatural and some, potentially toxic.  This article on Lovely Safe Mama got me thinking more about it and I decided to do some research of my own:  http://safemama.com/lovely/2009/05/04/guest-post-stephanie-of-bubble-bee-talks-about-vegetable-emulsifying-wax/  I'm hoping you can tell me what is in the type of Vegetable Emulsifying Wax that you use in your products, because I've found that there are many different types and just because the label reads "Vegetable Emulsifying Wax" doesn't mean the ingredient contains the same thing from product to product.   Thanks much for your help and any info you can share. Warmly, Stancie Stancie WilsonCo-Founder / EditorFig+Sage™www.figandsage.comorganic goodness. fab eco finds. Beauty/Fashion Editor: www.feelgoodstyle.comGreen Editor: http://blog.pricegrabber.com/shopgreen